In any large modern city there are closed ancient cemeteries. Today, such necropolises are often recognized monuments of architecture, often organized tours are even held on their territory. Indeed, on any fairly old churchyard there is something to see and think about. If you are interested in this topic, be sure to visit the Lutheran Smolensk cemetery in St. Petersburg.
Ancient necropolis for Gentiles in St. Petersburg
Until the events of the 1917 revolution, the attitude in Russia towards foreigners was special. Specialists from various industries and scientists from European countries were held in high esteem and were lured to work and move to Russia in all sorts of ways, it was also prestigious to marry a foreigner of worthy origin. As a result, Germans, French and British immigrated to our country with their families, and many stayed here forever. What is important, foreigners retained their status, and sometimes receive public recognition or highthe position was even easier for them than for the “local”. Such visitors were not even required to accept Orthodoxy, regardless of status, Europeans were allowed to keep their faith and not hide their religious beliefs. It was for this reason that in 1747, by order of the Synod, the organization of the first necropolis in St. Petersburg for non-Orthodox burials began. That is how the Lutheran Smolensk cemetery appeared in the south of the Decembrists Island, which got its name in honor of the Smolenka River, which flows nearby.
Who was buried in the non-Orthodox necropolis?
The place for the organization of burials of "foreign heterodox foreigners" was not chosen by chance. Not far away is Vasilyevsky Island, where many visitors lived at that time. Since a significant number of foreign families permanently residing in St. Petersburg were Germans, the definition of this nationality became in some way synonymous with the word "foreigner". For this reason, the Smolensk Lutheran cemetery was often called and is called "German" today. In fact, representatives of various faiths were buried here, among which were people of various nationalities. The original plan of the cemetery was drawn up by the architect Trezzini. Burials in this necropolis in most cases were carried out with special chic and according to all the rules of that era, since most often famous, respected and we althy people found their last shelter here. Ancestral crypts, sculptural compositions and massive lavishly decorated tombstones are a common sight forSmolensk churchyard.
"Flourishing" of the necropolis
In 1836 it was decided to enlarge the territory of the cemetery. To implement this project, the Council of the Church of St. Catherine bought out land owned by the State Councilor Kireev. As a result, the total area of the necropolis was increased to 15 hectares. A book of records of those buried in 1912-1919 has survived to this day. Having studied this document, we can conclude that in one year the Smolensk Lutheran cemetery in St. Petersburg increased by at least 350 new graves. In total, according to experts, about 25-30 thousand people were buried in this necropolis.
Smolensk cemetery in the late XIX - early XX century
Officially, the necropolis until February 1, 1919 belonged to the parish of the Lutheran Church of St. Catherine. The Church Council has always invariably taken care of the improvement of the territory of the cemetery and maintaining proper order on it. In 1882, for example, there was even a list of monuments that were to be restored or replaced. In total, this list included more than one and a half thousand tombstones. Those that were especially badly damaged were described in detail and preserved at the church. In 1860, the church council officially responded to the request of the Commission on the organization of cemeteries about the presence of buildings and gravestones of the 18th century on the territory of the necropolis. According to this document, at that time there were 83 tombstones and 5monuments of architecture of the specified period. On February 1, 1919, the Lutheran Smolensk cemetery was nationalized and transferred to the department of the Commissariat for Internal Affairs.
Official closure and the years of the Second World War
The necropolis was closed for mass graves in 1939. But, despite this fact, until the middle of the 20th century, single burials were carried out here. From this moment begins the history of the decline of the famous cemetery. Some of the most valuable tombstones were moved to the territory of the necropolis of the Alexander Nevsky Lavra, while the rest of the graves began to gradually overgrow with grass, and their monuments began to decay and collapse. The Lutheran Smolensk cemetery during the Great Patriotic War also accepted the Orthodox dead. A mass grave was organized here for the fighters of the Leningrad Front and an unusual children's burial. On May 9, 1942, in one of the kindergartens in Leningrad, the kids went for a walk with their teachers, the entire group and staff of the institution died under enemy artillery fire. The children were buried right here, in a large common grave.
Famous people buried at the Smolensk cemetery
Today the cemetery makes a deplorable impression. Gorgeous sculptures and tombs are seriously destroyed, garbage and desolation are all around. Meanwhile, walking along the rows of graves, you can trace through them a significant part of the history of this glorious city. Be sure to walk along the old cobbledalley - this is the real Smolensk Lutheran cemetery in St. Petersburg. Who is buried here? Various great figures of the past of foreign origin: scientists, writers, architects, artists, doctors. An unusual tombstone with a stone bust belongs to Gaetano Ciniselli, the founder of the circus on the Fontanka. Let's go further and see the family burial of the Schaubs, the most famous architects in St. Petersburg. Also buried at the Smolensk cemetery: Agafon Gustavovich Faberge (younger brother of the jeweler Carl Faberge), S. K. Greig and A. K. Greig (admirals) and their close relatives, Karl May (founder of May's gymnasium), Nikolai Fedorovich Arendt (label physician of Nicholas I), Mauritius Wolf (publisher of the Vokrug Sveta magazine) and many other prominent people.
What does the Smolensk Lutheran cemetery look like today?
Photos taken in our time on this churchyard show that it is very neglected. The modern territory of the necropolis is only about 7 hectares. In 1985, part of the territory of the churchyard was transferred for the construction of a fire station, and then, in the mid-90s of the last century, a gas station was erected near the entrance (on cemetery land). The Smolensk Lutheran cemetery suffered greatly from time and vandals. Although Petersburg is considered the cultural capital, the city seems to have forgotten about such an important architectural and spiritual monument. An interesting fact is that the cult film "Brother" brought fame and popularity to the ancient necropolis, one episode from this film was actually filmed right here - on the Smolensk churchyard. In the frame you can see one ofunusual and memorable "arbors" - the entrance to the crypt. And since the release of the film, an increasing number of tourists want to visit this cemetery and take pictures, “like in a movie.”
How to get to the "German" Lutheran cemetery?
You can freely enter the territory of the necropolis daily, in summer from 9.00 to 19.00, and in winter from 9.00 to 17.00. However, some connoisseurs of this place claim that you can go to the cemetery and back through the holes in the fence at any time of the day. And in some places this fence is completely absent. The Smolensk Lutheran cemetery in St. Petersburg has the following address: Smolenka River Embankment, property 27. By public transport, you can easily get from the Vasileostrovskaya metro station by minibuses 249A and K186. You need to get off at the stop "Kamskaya Street".