Experts call the Udmurt national costume the brightest, liveliest and most colorful among the peoples of Russia and the former CIS countries. Its typical color combination is white, black and red. In the national costume of the Udmurts, from the beginning of the 19th century, three complexes began to stand out:
- northern costume was tricolor;
- southern - multicolor;
- Besermyansky.
Headwear of the northern complex
Udmurt women's costume has several headdress options:
- hat;
- veil;
- towel;
- bandage.
The common girl's headdress - takya - a canvas hat, which was decorated with coins and red calico. Children wore kotres takya, it has a round shape, older girls wore a more oblong kuzyales takya. In addition to takya, canvas headbands were also popular, which were necessarily decorated with ribbons, braid, embroidery or sparkles. Scarves were spun from chintz or white host. On holidays, girls wore painted cashmere or silk scarves. Married women wore colorfully embroidered head towels: yyr kotyr, vesyak kishet. Men's hats did not differ in such a variety: in the summer they wore felted hats,in winter - sheepskin hats.
Southern hats
- Hats: pelkyshet.
- Headbands: yyrkerttet, tyatyak and ukotug.
- Towel: yirkyshet or turban.
- Aishon.
- Shawls.
Udmurt girls wore headbands with scarves. Ukotyuk is a complex headdress. Stripes of lace with dense fringe, wooden pendants, lace threads, and sequins were sewn onto a calico or canvas. Headbands of adult women (yyrkerttet) were distinguished by sewn coins and beads. Aishon is the Udmurt analogue of the Russian kokoshnik. The base was made of birch bark, sheathed with canvas and, of course, decorated in front with beads, beads and coins. On top of the aishon they put on a syulyk - a white embroidered canvas. The wedding syulyk had an important distinguishing feature - massive black embroidery and tassels on the sides of black and red threads. From the day of the wedding until the birth of their first child, women wore a black syulyk, then red until old age.
Women's Udmurt national costume
Women's North Udmurt outfit is an ancient and simple type of clothing. The basis was a shirt dress: straight dense material, rectangular sleeves, a triangular or oval neckline without a collar. The hem and sleeves of the dress were traditionally decorated with embroidery. The transverse embroidery with a rosette was called koltyrmach, and the relief longitudinal with a diamond-shaped pattern was called gorden. The Udmurt women's costume of the northerners necessarily includes an open caftan shortderem. Its cut is similar to a shirt, only the collar wassquare turn-down and short sleeves. Shortdarem was richly decorated with beads, coins, cowries, stripes of calico and embroidery on the hem and collar. There were many ways to finish the caftan:
- zok kumak ponem - a lot of kumach;
- pichi kumach ponem - a little kumach;
- kotyr kumach ponem - a band of kumach around the entire caftan;
- kotulo - a wide stripe of calico to the waistline;
- kotrah tachkyo - embroidered trim on the floors, hem and shoulders;
- Vozhen Shirem - green embroidery on the hem;
- gorden shyrem - red;
- shoden shyrem - black.
The national costume of the Udmurts cannot be imagined without an apron (ayshet, azkyshet or ashshet), trimmed with lace, braid, and patterns. Ties were made in the form of brushes from multi-colored pieces of fabric. On holidays, clothes were complemented by a patterned belt, on which a handkerchief was hung on the side. Everyone girdled with a slouchy apron.
Udmurt national costume as footwear includes bast bast shoes according to the Russian model. On holidays, Udmurt folk bast shoes were worn, which have a trapezoidal toe shape. Under the bast shoes, the Udmurt women put on thick white canvas stockings chugles, the outer fabric was beautifully embroidered with patterns or calico. Patterned thin marchanchuglas were pulled over the stockings.
National costume of Udmurt men
Men's Udmurt national costume includes:
- shirt;
- belt or belt;
- pants.
The shirt is white canvas with a cutout on the right side of the chest and sleeves, which are decorated with red thin transverse stripes. Her men always put on a blouse and girded it with a belt or braided belt. Pants are usually tight and dark in color, more often blue. Men's shoes, as a rule, were not decorated. In summer they wore bast shoes, in winter - felt boots.
Today, the Udmurt folk costume is rarely used for its intended purpose. They are kept in museums or at home in chests as family treasures, ethnic folklore ensembles put on performances. In the villages, the custom of wearing national clothes for weddings and big holidays has been preserved.
