A special feature of all ethnic groups are the traditional costumes of peoples. Mordovian is the most striking example of this.
Erzya is one of the oldest Finno-Ugric tribes.
Creating their traditional costume, the Mordovian people invested their soul, wanted to make it bright, original. All their hard work put into the created outfits was successfully justified.
Outfit summary
The Mordovian costume was formed over the years in the Central European part of Russia. In the creation of the national dress, many borrowed elements taken from the Erzya and Moksha peoples are very closely intertwined.
Decor elements are embedded in the traditional Mordovian costume, which helped to reveal all views about the beauty of a person. The outfit brought together the fullness of creativity, presented in embroidery, making jewelry from beads and beads, weaving. The ability to put on and wear the costumes of the Mordovian people was also a great talent. Sometimes, to put on such an outfit, it took a couple of hours and the help of a few more people.
Single description
The Mordovian national costume is incredibly bright and colorful.
Daily women's and men'sthe wardrobe was considered comfortable and as well adapted as possible for household chores, suited to all the requirements of natural and climatic conditions. It included underwear, summer, winter and demi-season.
All kinds of decorative ornaments were sure to be present.
But the festive Mordovian women's costume consisted of a large number of components. It was a true folk work of art.
Obviously, according to ancient traditions, elements of respected and revered symbols - he alth, strength and endurance - were introduced into the Mordovian costume (photo is presented in the article). In most cases, they were standard.
Women's National Outfit
The Mordovian women's costume, its photo is provided below, was formed on the basis of a wide long shirt - panar. It was sewn from two large pieces of fabric. She counted four seams from the side of the chest and back. It was this part of the outfit that was borrowed from the Erzya. To make it convenient to walk and work in it, the front was not sewn up to the very bottom. The sleeves on the shirt were straight and wide.
The collar was missing, and the neckline on the chest had the shape of a triangle and was very deep. To hide such a large neckline a little, clasps were used - sulgamo. They were in two versions: oval with open movable ends and in the shape of a trapezoid.
Beads and a special string with coins and beads strung on it were also hung around the neck.
The main decoration was embroidery, which was very dense. It completely framed all the edges of the neckline, sleeves, hem and passed in the middle in front and behind with large stripes.
During the holidays, young women put on top a beautifully embroidered shirt - pokai.
But the style of the moksha shirt had minor differences. It was sewn from three pieces of linen, it was much shorter in length, up to the knees. Therefore, pants were worn underneath. The chest neckline was oval.
Sleeveless jackets were another part of the outfit. They put them on top of the shirt. The cut of the model was in the waist, it was made of black fabric. From the back, it was decorated with bright satin ribbons.
The most important element of the outfit
One of the most important components of this costume is the belt - bullet. It existed in two varieties: with a roller and without it. It was made from a rectangular piece of canvas and cardboard or felt was sewn inside. Patterned embroidery and various decorative ornaments were applied to its outer side.
It is this component that the Mordovian folk costume borrowed from the Erzya. According to tradition, a girl put it on on the day of majority and after that she had to wear it all the time, without taking it off.
Unlike the everyday pulai, the festive one was decorated very richly. There was a multi-colored bead pattern, coins, chains, buttons. A woolen fringe descended from the very bottom of the belt almost to the knees. For daily use, the pulai was black, and green or red was considered smart.
A variety of pendants hung around the edges. They consisted of an iron frame of several rows of wire or a narrow braided row of links. Bells, small change, beadwork and chains were attached there. Despite the fact that it retained a certain pattern and was decorated according to ancient traditions, it was still sometimes allowed to show independence in decorating it.
It was this element in the suit that was an indicator of the territorial affiliation and financial solvency of the owner.
Features of hats
One of the elements decorating the women's traditional costume is the Mordovian headdress. There were several types. Large ones - with a rigid base in the shape of a rectangle and cone-shaped - were called pango, this type was worn by Erzi. The headdress-forty gained considerable popularity. He represented a cap made of canvas, embroidered with beads and braid, under it they put on a cover or hair.
Temporal pendants, which were made of shells, down feathers, and coins, were an integral part. Headpieces in the form of fringes or feathers were also popular.
And moksha women gave their preference to soft, not bulky headwear like a towel with embroidered ends.
This part of the dress should definitely correspond to the age and marital status of its owner.
There were also rules and traditions, for example, a girl, unlike a woman, was allowed not to cover her head completely. And in the church it was customary to wear a scarf, reminiscent of a shorttowel with embroidered patterns on the ends. Young girls wore headdresses.
Warm clothes, shoes
The Mordovian women's warm suit practically did not differ from the men's. In the demi-season, men wore sumani sewn from cloth. In winter - sheep wool coats.
They had bast shoes. Their distinguishing feature was oblique weaving, low sides, and a trapezoidal shape of the head. They were usually made from lime and elm bast. The legs were wrapped in footcloths, there were two types of them: the lower ones for the feet, the upper ones for the calves. With the onset of cold weather, white or black onuchi were put on top of them. But on holidays, boots were worn, which were sewn from cow or calf skin. And in winter, white felt boots were preferred.
Also did not forget about the decoration in the ears. These were earrings with a pendant - a coin or a bead.
News
Already at the end of the 19th century, the women's Mordovian folk costume was supplemented with an apron. According to the model, it was divided into three types: closed with sleeves, with a bib and without. It was sewn from fabric of various colors. After such an innovation, he became an integral part of the outfit. They wore it all the time - on holidays, workdays. Like all clothes, they were decorated with embroidery, satin ribbons, lace frills.
The classic women's Mordovian national costume kept its originality until the beginning of the 20th century. But without a doubt, there are still villages in which they honor, cherish and observe ancient rituals and customs.
Description of clothes for men
Mordovian costumethe men's also had its own characteristics, although it had something in common with the clothes of Russian heroes.
One of the important components was a shirt - panar and pants - ponkst.
Daily work attire was made from heavy hemp fabric, and smart festive attire was made from light linen. Panhards were worn loose and tied with a belt.
From the beginning of the 20th century, factory-made fabrics began to be used.
The Mordovian summer men's suit provided for the presence of a shirt - a white vest, which was worn on top of the panar.
Demi-season clothing was a dark-colored cloth coat - suman. And when they were going on a trip, they put on a chapan. In the cold season - sheepskin coats.
Important costume detail
It is worth paying special attention to the elements included in the traditional costumes of peoples - the Mordovian belt, which had a special meaning. It was leather and adorned with a buckle made of expensive metals. In turn, it was simple, in the form of a ring, or complex - with a shield, in order to attach it to a belt. An iron tip was attached to its other edge, and plaques of various shapes were attached to the outer side. And all this was decorated with various patterns and stones. It was also used as a device for hanging weapons or other things. Since ancient times, the belt was considered a male distinguishing feature.
Their shoes were simple - bast shoes. But, like women, during the holidays it was boots with a heel and gathering at the shin.
One of the popular hats -black and white felted hats with small brim. The summer option was canvas caps. In the cold season, they wore hats with earflaps and malachai.
About the process of making outfits
Embroidery is considered a colorful and original manifestation of talent, being one of the main decorations of national clothes. In the process of needlework, woolen, but sometimes silk threads were used. It is also worth noting the fact that the main colors of the Mordovian people were dark red and black with a blue tint, and additional colors were yellow and green. The most popular use of octagonal stars in the ornament. Most of the patterns were arranged in an inclined grid.
Girls were taught to sew from an early age. This skill was considered one of the virtues of the girl. Between themselves, they always competed in skill, came up with new drawings and figures.
All their inspiration for creating new elements they took from nature. Therefore, the appropriate names of patterns were selected - stars, spruce branches, chicken legs.
Until a certain time, the basis from which the Mordovian costume was sewn was made by one's own efforts. Light linen fabrics, coarse canvases, wool for sewing warm clothes. They also dyed threads for embroidery with natural dyes, and all this thanks to a well-developed national economy.
Besides all this, women hunted in patterned weaving. Usually it was used to decorate elements of clothing: hats, belts. The Mordovian people used in decorationgeometric ornament: rhombuses, cage, zigzag, Christmas trees.
Dress decor
The application was also very popular. For its manufacture, silk and paper threads, cloth, braid, stripes of gold embroidery were used. Thus, in many variants, she even replaced embroidery. Decorated with overlay patterns mostly warm clothes.
Sewing with beads plays a significant role in Mordovian folk art. Its color scheme was not varied, mainly red, yellow, white and black. And the ornament is the same as that of embroidery. It was widely used to make various elements of decoration and decoration of clothes.
