The national costume of each country is formed under the influence of historical factors that, to one degree or another, influenced the development of the state. Headdresses, tailoring of costumes, choice of patterns and color palette reflect the material and spiritual values of the people.
Some historical facts
The Azerbaijani national costume is no exception (photos of male and female attire are presented to your attention in the article), which has undergone changes many times. Azerbaijan is one of the Caucasian countries, located on the shores of the Caspian Sea. It should be noted that the history of this country is rich in ups and downs. The Persian and Turkic peoples played a huge role in the development of its cultural heritage.
Azerbaijani national costume is a heritage of culture, which bears the imprint of the identity of the people. None of his details are random. The excavations carried out by historians and archaeologists on the territory of modern Azerbaijan speak of the we alth and material well-being of this country as far back asantiquities. Clay vessels, jewelry, fragments of clothing made of silk fabrics - this is only a small part of the finds dating back to the 4th-3rd centuries BC, which shows the development of the people and the state. And in the 17th century, the Azerbaijani city of Shirvan was considered a center for the production of silk fabric. The cities of Azerbaijan were famous for their leather and textile craftsmen.
So what is the national costume of Azerbaijan today? This is a unique and original outfit that is full of bright colors and rich in embroidered patterns. Dolls in the national costume of Azerbaijan can be bought in the country's souvenir shops, in the markets. You have the opportunity to see photos of these wonderful products in the article.
National costume of women
Women's Azerbaijani national costume (see photo in the article) consists of two parts: upper and lower. Outerwear included clothes worn over the shoulders, while underwear included clothes below the waist. Types of shoulder clothing: top shirt, various caftans and vests. Skirts (or fogs) of various lengths, colors and shapes belonged to the waist part of the costume.
Top shirt
The top shirt ("mouth keinei") had its own peculiarity. It was loose-fitting and had sleeves that were narrowed at the base of the shoulder, and became wider towards the bottom of the arms. Usually a piece of fabric of a different color was sewn to the armpits. The shirt was worn over the head andfastened with one button under the neck. The shirt was sheathed with braid, and cash coins were sewn to the bottom. The choice of fabric and color of the outfit depended on the material well-being of the family, as well as the age of the woman. Young girls chose more colorful colors to attract attention.
A caftan was worn over the top shirt. There were several types of caftans, the main difference of which was in the length, the shape of the cut, and also in the sleeves.
Caftan Chepken
So, for example, one type of caftan - chepken (in Azerbaijani - cəpkən) - had false long sleeves that flowed down the sides and ended with armlets. Often, buttons were sewn to the sleeves. Chepken was worn over the top shirt and tightly fitted the upper body. The main fabric for sewing chepkens was tirma, velvet, and also silk. Young girls usually chose red, green or blue chepkens. By the way, there were also types of chepkens for men.
Arkhaluk
The next type of caftans is araaluk (in Azerbaijani arxalıq). Arkhaluk, like chepken, was worn over a shirt, tightly fitting the body. His mittens ended just below the elbow. Arkhaluka had a standing collar. The lower part had a pleated hem. There were everyday and festive arkhaluks. Archaluks for everyday life were sewn from cheaper fabric and had fewer patterns for decorations. They also wore a belt over them.
Lebbade andashmek
The Azerbaijani national costume for girls included lebbade (Azerb. Ləbbadə). This is a type of outerwear, the details of which were sheathed with braid and, unlike the archaluk, it had an open collar, and the sleeves were usually up to the elbows. There were slits on the sides of the lebbade.
Eshmek or kurdu - women's clothing without a collar and sleeves, essentially a vest. Tirma was considered the main fabric for their production; they were also sheathed with patterns of gold-colored silk threads.
Mists and hats
Skirts were also worn over top shirts. In Azerbaijan they are called fogs. The uppermost mist had various patterns for decorations, pleated pleats, and reached to the floor. Only the women of the Nakhichevan region wore shorter tumans. In addition to the overskirts, there were also a few undermists that gave volume to the lower part of the outfit.
Azerbaijan has a huge number of national headdresses. Scarves, turbans, skullcaps with a train - this is not the whole list. A special place among believers was occupied by a veil, which covered a woman from head to toe. But women who were already married put several headscarves on top of each other.
Jewelry
The weak half of the land of fire has always had a soft spot for ornaments and jewelry. The beauties preferred large earrings and wore several bracelets at the same time, but after the wedding, preference should have been given to modest earrings and 2-3 rings. The belt showed the woman's marital status. For unmarried girlsit was not allowed to wear it before marriage. And they received the first belt in their lives from their parents on their wedding day. By the way, wearing jewelry was also not always allowed. So, for example, after giving birth, it was not allowed to wear jewelry for 40 days.
Shoes
On the legs they wore stockings with national patterns (jorabbs) knitted from sheep's wool. Women's shoes looked like sandals without a back, with a small heel and a pointed toe.
The palette of women's national costumes was full of bright colors, but red was still the most preferable color. It was believed that the red color brings happiness and family well-being. Usually it was chosen by unmarried girls, but after the wedding, it was required to give preference to calmer and darker colors.
Men's national clothes
The main detail of the men's Azerbaijani national costume is the headdress. The hat was considered a symbol of the honor and dignity of a man, to lose it means to lose honor. Knocking down a hat from an Azerbaijani man means starting a bloody war not only with him, but also becoming an enemy of the whole family. They didn't even take off their hats while eating. And only before ablution for namaz (Muslim prayer) the hat was removed. It was considered a violation of etiquette and disrespect for the hosts to appear at some solemn event without a headdress.
Mostly men wore hats. This is a type of headdress that was made of mutton fur and had different shapes. By shapehats could determine the social status or region of residence of its owner. There are 4 main types of papakh:
- Choban papakha (shepherd's hat), she was also called motal papakha. The choban of the papakha had the shape of a cone, sewn from long-haired sheep's fur. This hat was worn mostly by poor people.
- Shish hats also had the shape of a cone, but they were made of fur, which was specially brought from Bukhara. Either beks or we althy gentlemen could afford such a hat.
- Dagga hats were worn by representatives of the Nukhinsky district. The hat had the shape of a circle, the top of which was sutured with velvet.
- Cowl - a hood worn over another headdress in bad weather. The hood had a cloth lining, as well as long ends for tying around the neck. Thus, the hood saved from bad weather.
The clergy wore turbans and turbans that differed in color. The highest representatives of the clergy wore a green turban, and the lowest - white.
The national costume of Azerbaijan (photo posted in the article) for men was a top shirt, caftan and trousers (shalvar). The main color of the shirt is white or blue, the preferred fabric for making it is cotton, always with long sleeves. A caftan (arkhaluk) was put on over the top shirt, like a Russian undershirt. The caftan fit snugly to the body, and below the waist it expanded and had the shape of a skirt. The male arkhaluk had a rather laconic look, was created in dark colors and rarely had embroidered patterns.
Azerbaijani men put on trousers (shalvar) from below. Bloomers were tightly tied on top with a ribbon that was sewn to them.
Men paid special attention to the belt. It was the only accessory they were allowed to wear. Belts were made of both leather and silk fabrics. Braid was sewn to silk belts. The belts were very long so that the owner could tie it around the waist several times. Since men's outerwear did not have pockets, this role was assigned to belts, behind which daggers and other small items were placed.
Like women, men wore jorabbas (long socks) on their feet. In general, whole family stories were connected with the Jorabbs. It is known that jorabbas were divided into everyday and festive types. Festive ones were connected in a special way, carpet ornaments were embroidered on them. Jorabbs provided the whole family with weak representatives of the sex. Shoes or boots were worn over the jorabbas, depending on the weather.
In men's national costumes, preference was given to dark colors. The outfit was supposed to give her owner a strict and respectful look.
National costume in the modern world
Today, one can hardly meet a resident in a national costume on the streets of Azerbaijani cities. All this has sunk into past years. However, as in many countries, the dances of the people are performed in national costumes. Also, in performances based on folk art, the heroes are dressed in historical costumes.
In rural areas, you can sometimes meet the bride and groom in national costume at the celebration of the betrothal. And in wedding traditions, a ceremony is still preserved when the bride's relatives tie a red belt (ribbon) around her waist, thus showing a change in her marital status.
Recently, as in many countries, Azerbaijani designers in their collections are returning to the history of the national costume. So, for example, patterns and ornaments of old times are embroidered on dresses, and bright and colorful scarves are offered as headdresses.
To this day, every tourist and guest of the Maiden Tower (gyz galasy) can try on a national costume and for a while feel like an oriental beauty or a mountain horseman.
