In the Buryat steppe, near the ridge called Khamar-Daban, which is located near the village of Ivolginsk, there is a Buddhist religious capital of the country - a magnificent datsan. When the weather is clear, beautiful gilded temples shine and shimmer, welcoming tourists and pilgrims from afar. It seems that time has stopped here…
Schedule of Khurals
Many tourists are interested in the Ivolginsky datsan. The schedule of khurals can be found in the information and visiting center located at the monastery. You need to call there at the following toll-free number: 8-800-1003-108. It is better to contact from 8:30 to 21:00.
Foundation of the Ivolginsky datsan and other spiritual centers
Since 1937, there were no officially functioning Buddhist temples in our country. But after the Second World War, the authorities allowed believers to establish two monasteries - in the Aginsky district, as well as in Buryatia. Why wasthis decision is still unknown. The old lamas who returned from penal servitude, and even ordinary people, founded Tuges Bayashalantai Ulzy Nomoi Khurdyn Khiid near the village of Verkhnyaya Ivolga. This translates as "The monastery, standing on the territory where the Wheel of the Teaching is spinning, giving Joy and filled with Happiness." It was opened in the early winter of 1945. For decades, this datsan was the only sacred place for Buddhists located in Buryatia, but already in the 1990s, magnificent spiritual centers began to be built again. Believers were very inspired by these events. But there are quite a lot of them in Ulan-Ude. Ivolginsky datsan became a real outlet for them. Many began to visit it quite often.
Buddhist University
Soon a private Buddhist university called "Dashi Choynhorlin" began to function in the Ivolginsky datsan. It happened in 1991. It is still a unique educational institution, there are no more such in our country. His activity is to teach Buddhist philosophy and to get acquainted with it in detail. The material is presented as it was many years ago in the monastic schools of Buryatia, even before the revolution.
A little about Buddhism
Buddhism is the oldest of the three major religions in the world. Christianity is five centuries younger than him, and Islam twelve. Buddhism is based on the theory of the Four Noble Truths. They include suffering, its causes and occurrence, the elimination of suffering and the sources that give rise to it, androads leading to their end. The Eightfold (middle) Path is considered the most preferable, allowing one to plunge into Nirvana. It implies several types of development of virtues: morality, concentration, and also knowledge - prajna. If a person passes through all these roads, he will completely get rid of torment and find peace in Nirvana. All this can be learned by visiting the Ivolginsky datsan. Itigelov, of course, was aware of this.
Theravada and Mahayana
Buddhism is generally divided into Theravada and Mahayana. This translates as "Teachings of the Ancients" and "Great Chariot". The first is the only school of early Buddhism (in other words, Nikaya) that still exists. This direction is often found in Tibet and Nepal. It has also received a small distribution in our country and Japan. From Tibet, it migrated to Mongolia, then to Buryatia, at the next stage, to Tuva, and, finally, to the steppes of Kalmykia. Mahayana appeared relatively recently. Its characteristic feature is the theory of Bodhichitta, in other words, the desire to save absolutely all beings living on earth. It implies infinite mercy and compassion towards them. This theory also includes the concept of a Bodhisattva - a person who can neglect individual immersion in Nirvana in order to save all those living on earth. Mahayana is characteristic of Tibetan and Chinese Buddhism, as well as some autonomous schools. The features and important points of these theories are so twisted and inaccessible to an outside observer that it takesa huge amount of time, and even then it is not a fact that a person will really understand everything. But everyone who wants to get new information is ready to accept Buryatia. Ivolginsky datsan is always happy to open its doors to guests. Therefore, you can go there without a moment's doubt about the correctness of your decision.
Hambo Lama Itigelov
The body of Lama Itigelov, which is very well preserved, is kept in the Ivolginsky datsan. You can read about it in the scientific literature. Researchers have been arguing about this phenomenon for years.
On June 15, 1927, when Khambo Lame (a position comparable to an Orthodox metropolitan) Itigelov was 75 years old, he asked the monks living in the Yangazhinsky datsan to read a prayer intended for him in case of death. It was called "Nuga Namshi" ("Good wishes to the dying"). The monks were absolutely confused and did not know what to do, and then Itigelov was the first to begin to utter the words of the prayer. Lamas had to support him. When the prayer was over, and Itigelov no longer showed signs of life and seemed dead, they, as indicated in the will, put him in a sarcophagus (it is called a bumkhan) in the lotus position and buried him in the village of Khukhe Zurkhen. There is now Ivolginsk. Of course, this name does not mean anything at all to many. Tourists traveling to the Ivolginsky datsan should always have a map at hand.
Removing the body from the sarcophagus
The monks fulfilled the request set out in Itigelov's will: in 1955, Lama Lubsan Nima Darmaev, together with the inhabitants of the monastery, raisedbumkhan with the body, and then, having made sure that it was safe, he performed the necessary rituals, changed his clothes and put him back in the sarcophagus. In 1973, another examination of the deceased was carried out.
September 10, 2002, Lama Damba Ayusheev, together with several monks of the Ivolginsky datsan, accompanied by secular people (criminologists, etc.), opened Itigelov's sarcophagus. It was in the same shape as before, there were no signs of drying or decay. After performing the necessary rituals, Itigelov's body was taken to the Ivolginsky datsan. A separate palace was erected for him there. The lamas of the Ivolginsky datsan have done their duty.
Unexplained phenomenon
In the same year, experts took some samples - pieces of the epidermis, nails, and hair. Based on the experiments carried out by forensic doctors, it was concluded that Itigelov's protein fractions are as if he were still alive. Scientists do not know how to comment on this phenomenon. Doctors are also confused. Many people come to the datsan to bow to the well-preserved body. They think it's a real miracle.
Simple rules
Ivolginsky datsan is not a museum, but a functioning monastery. Going there on a tour, you must comply with some requirements. Some Russian people will seem quite ordinary, others - very exotic. Being in the square of the walls, you can not smoke, throw garbage and swear. It is better for girls to come to Ivolginsky datsan in rather long dresses.
Shooting is prohibited in temples, but outdoorsyou can take pictures. This concludes the usual requirements.
Unusual requirements
Being in the temple, you must take off your caps, hats and hats. You can not hang a backpack or bag on your shoulder, it is recommended to carry them in your hand or put them near the door. It is forbidden to turn one's back to the paintings depicting the Buddha and the saints, as well as to the body of Itigelov. Also, don't point your finger at them. If there is a prayer in the temple, it is forbidden to cross your arms and sit with one foot on the other. It must be remembered that the Ivolginsky datsan is a sacred place.
Goros
As soon as you enter the monastery, you need to make a symbolic detour around the border of the datsan along the path from the inside. This rite is called Goros. You need to go around the datsan, and just go around various objects only in a clockwise direction, as if in a solar circle.
After entering the door, turn left and walk along the wall until you return to the gate. On this road there are many prayer mills - khurde (drums). They are decorated with hieroglyphs. They contain prayer sheets. Turning khurde (certainly clockwise), a person, as it were, pronounces a sacred text.
Amazing place
Ivolginsky datsan is a unique place. When you walk around suburgans, khurde and pagoda-temples, every now and then looking at the endless steppe and Khamar-Daban, visible in the distance, it seems that you are outside of Russia. It seems that this is an exotic Chinese steppe, Mongolia or Tibet. Impressions from staying in a datsan remain with tourists for a lifetime.
