The first mentions, giving at least some information about the clothes worn in Ancient Russia, historians associate with the era of Kievan Rus. It is worth noting that the outfits of that time were characterized by some features by which it was possible to determine the lifestyle of people of that period, their attitude to the world around them and their views. The clothes of that time had their own personality. Although in some details there are elements that have already been used in the outfits of other peoples.
What characteristics distinguished the clothes of Ancient Russia
Already in those days, people perceived clothing as an essential attribute that protected them from temperature changes, and as a kind of amulet protecting its owner from the action of evil spirits. To enhance the protective effect, clothes were supplemented with a special ornament, embroidery or all kinds of amulets and decorations.
The general structure of the costume of ordinary and noble people was largely similar. The main difference was in the materials that were used for tailoring. In the wardrobe of a peasant, one could only find linen items, and the upper classes could also boast of expensive fabrics brought from other countries.countries.
The main clothes for children were long, loose-fitting shirts. Both boys and girls went to them. They were not specially sewn for children, they were altered from already worn parental outfits. This is no accident. An ancient belief of that time said that clothes sewn in this way for a child have strong protective properties and are a talisman for him.
Another belief claimed that she was able to absorb the human spirit and strength. If you transfer it to another person to wear, then it will transfer all the good qualities to the new owner. It is for this reason that father's clothes were altered for sons, and mother's dresses for daughters.
Colors in traditional costumes
The appearance of an inhabitant of Ancient Russia was restored for a long time according to the sources of chronicles, ancient images in ancient temples, archaeological excavations, during which fragments of fabrics were discovered.
The Russian people had a special craving for red. In the understanding of that time, it was this shade that, in its sound, was closest to the concept of “beautiful”, “beautiful”. No wonder it was in those days that the stable expressions “red fellow”, “red girl”, “red sun” appeared. This color is predominant in the choice of fabrics for clothes and scarves.
Any item of clothing in Ancient Russia was called the single term "port", which formed the basis for the name of men's trousers (trousers). Later, the profession itself appeared - a tailor.
If the men's Russian costume did not differ in particular variety, then in the women's outfitsignificant differences were observed, by which it was possible to determine belonging to the northern or southern regions. If in warm regions girls and women wore shirts, pony skirts and jocks, then in the northern regions sundresses and kokoshniks were added to shirts. The latter were the most elegant elements of any clothing.
Women's hats of all regions were much more complicated than men's in their design and carried a semantic load. We all at least once saw Russian beauties in a kokoshnik. Let's dwell on this headdress.
First information about the kokoshnik
For the first time the term "kokoshnik" is mentioned in historical documents of the 16th century. Its origin has ancient Slavic roots. In the literal translation, "kokoshnik" is "hen-hen" or "rooster". It was a festively embroidered headdress for women, which was an obligatory element of national dress.
A distinctive feature of this headdress was a comb. Different regions had their own form. In some, it outwardly resembled arrowheads, other provinces were rich in crescent-shaped kokoshniks, and in still others, kokoshniks called “magpies”, “heels” and “gold-domed” could be found.
The shape of the product depended on the traditional hairstyle in each region. Somewhere it was customary to collect hair in a tight bundle, which was wrapped around the head, or in braids, which were laid at the back of the head or at the temples.
How the kokoshnik appeared as a headdress inwomen's Russian national costume?
Versions of the origin of the kokoshnik
The main version of the appearance of the kokoshnik headdress is of Byzantine origin. Even in ancient times, the hairstyles of noble Greek women were decorated with diadems, which were fastened with ribbons in their hair. But such beauty could only be built by unmarried girls. Married ladies were deprived of this opportunity by throwing a veil over their hair.
There is an opinion that acquaintance with this Byzantine tradition occurred during the period of Russian-Byzantine trade relations. The princely daughters gladly introduced high Greek women's headdresses into their wardrobe.
The second, later version of the origin, is associated with the invasion of the Mongol-Tatar yoke. The warriors had a headdress resembling a female kokoshnik, which was probably borrowed by Ancient Russia, but only as a female element of the national costume.
Where in Russia could the kokoshnik be found?
A little later, the kokoshnik could be seen not only in the peasant class, but also among the nobility and high-ranking officials in court costumes. Empress Catherine ll, for example, loved to pose while painting portraits in this headdress. Thus, she tried to demonstrate her close disposition to the common people. And the courtiers who came to masquerades in such headdresses received special favor and encouragement from the Empress.
Nikolay l since 1834 withIn the yard, a special women's costume with a kokoshnik was introduced. It was based on a dress and a corresponding headdress. A kokoshnik of a special color, finish and shape was prescribed only for married ladies of various court status.
Empress Maria Feodorovna, wife of Alexander lll, had among her jewelry a diamond tiara, the appearance of which resembled a kokoshnik. Her sister Alexandra could not resist such beauty and ordered her own. Since then, kokoshniks made of precious stones have come into fashion.
How did they wear such a headdress as a kokoshnik?
In Russia, the ancient Slavic custom ruled, according to which the headdresses of girls and married women had differences. They wore not only different hats, but also hairstyles. If girls in a kokoshnik were allowed to walk with loose hair or a braid, then married women had to braid two braids and completely cover their heads. In this regard, the headgear had significant differences. The head of a married lady was completely covered with matter, which symbolized marital status. The kokoshnik with a veil, which was decorated with beads and embroidery, was very popular.
A girl in a kokoshnik with long flowing hair was the standard of beauty. But to expose uncovered curls to a married lady for all to see was indecent in those days. It was considered a great sin if anyone other than the husband saw the hair on display. There was a belief that the hair of a married woman had a negative effect on men, attractingevil forces.
The value of the kokoshnik
Kokoshniki are headdresses that acquired special value at the end of the 18th century. In their manufacture, galloon was used, and in rare cases, brocade, embroidered with gold and silver threads, sewn in faceted rhinestones and colored foil. The basis of the headdress was silk or velvet.
Each woman could make most of the products on her own, decorating with them not only her own, but also the heads of her daughters and granddaughters, while experienced craftswomen with professional skills in needlework and embroidery were engaged in the manufacture of kokoshniks.
The main centers of their production in those days were Upper Mamon and Pavlovsk. Such products cost a lot of money. Therefore, they were kept as a family heirloom and passed from mother to daughter, older sisters to younger ones, and even granddaughters and great-nieces.
Prosperous brides always had a kokoshnik on their dowry list. It was customary to wear it on the wedding day and on subsequent major holidays until the birth of the baby. After that, the kokoshnik was removed and replaced by scarves and other headdresses.
Significant elements of the kokoshnik
The decoration of the kokoshnik in the form of an ornament was of great importance. The middle of the headdress was usually decorated with a stylized “frog”, which symbolized fertility, on the sides there were figures of swans, which from ancient times were a symbol of fidelity of spouses. On the back side was placed the tree of life in the formbush. The branches of the plant marked the next generation. Birds, fruits and other significant symbols were placed on each branch.
Fashion takes precedence over tradition
The latest known kokoshniks are hats resembling caps. The ornament was present, but it has completely changed. Now it was represented by only two elements - a bunch of grapes and a scarlet rose. The headdress retained its historical ideas longer than all other elements, while accumulating new trends in its image. The traditional women's Russian folk costume, after a while, is replaced by a fashionable one. Together with him, the kokoshnik was replaced by printed and cotton scarves, ladies' hats.
This is interesting
Despite the fact that, according to many, the kokoshnik is a Russian headdress, it can also be found among other peoples. For example, the ancient Scythians and Iberians (ancestors of the Spaniards). They also wore headdresses very reminiscent of kokoshniks.
Today, this element has remained in the memory of only older generations, and for contemporaries it has turned into the history of Russian folk women's costume, becoming the richest heritage of Ancient Russia.
