Charming, aesthetic, graceful flower of luxurious life, a little spoiled, self-contradictory, exquisitely eccentric. These epithets can probably define the fashion trend of the early 19th century called dandyism.
Who is a dandy?
Dandyism flourished in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. England is considered the birthplace of this cultural trend. A dandy is not just a fashionista who knows how to dress beautifully, it is something mysterious, incomprehensible, unsolved. This is a game in which many bright minds of the time were involved:
- George Brummell is a legislator of dandyism and a character in works, feature films, plays and treatises.
- Oscar Wilde is a London-based philosopher, writer, esthete and poet.
- George Gordon Byron or simply Lord Byron is an English poet who sang joyless selfishness.
- Aubrey Vincent Beardsley is a British artist, poet and aesthete.
- Alexander Sergeevich Pushkin - the founder of the literary Russian language, poet, historian, critic and publicist.
- Lermontov Mikhail Yurievich - Russian playwright, poet and artist.
- Charles Baudelaire - French founder of decadence, poet, essayist, critic.
- Sergey Pavlovich Diaghilev is a ballet producer and theatrical figure.
But it was George Brummel who is considered the arbiter, legislator, commander, called the "Prime Minister of Elegance", whom all the followers of this phenomenon looked up to.
Dandism itself develops its own special disparaging rules of behavior in society, a vital position of superiority over others and a unique style of clothing that combines impeccable taste and a somewhat spontaneous look.
Three components of dandyism
Dandy is a socialite, artist, snob, intellectual and fashion leader. It is not enough just to dress fashionably, although a tailored tailcoat, curled curls, and impeccably fresh shirts, scarves and socks are required. An adept of dandyism must be cool and elegant, graceful and ironic, his motto is the three notorious rules:
- don't be surprised at anything;
- keep your cool to dazzle with unpredictability;
- leave in time to impress.
Dandist portrait
Who is a dandy? How is he supposed to look like? The British critic and essayist William Hazlitt, in his 1821 work On the look of a gentleman, gives a rather exhaustive definition of the dandy's physical appearance, implying that the gentleman's body is his instrument, the use of which must be at ease and virtuosic. All movements are perfected, but free, and completely subordinate to the will of the fashionista, who controls him with an impassive look. According to Hazlitt, dandy is a more sophisticatedversion of the gentleman, who is characterized by the clarity of movement and the brilliance of spectacular manners. For a true dandy, it is important not only to dress elegantly, but also to be able to present oneself gallantly and enthusiastically.
Dandy: history and modernity
There have been a lot of fashionistas in history. All of them were united by a passion for fashion and something else, something ephemeral, elusive.
The first famous dandy of antiquity can be considered Alkabiades of Athens, whose name was mentioned by Lord Byron, considering him the most charming hero of antiquity. Baudelaire called the Greek commander and orator the forerunner of dandyism, and Arsène Usse compared Alcibiades, the lover of orgies, with the insatiable seducer Don Juan. The ancient Greek hero was distinguished by magical beauty, conquering contemporaries of both sexes. The name Alcibiades has become a brand of androgynous style in modern fashion.
Mentions the name of Alcibiades in his writings and a student of Socrates, the ancient philosopher Plato, who describes one episode of a table conversation favorite of the public with those present. Alcibiades told in detail to those around him the story of the failure of his love harassment to Socrates, who rejected his beauty and blooming youth, and laughed at him. Only a person with amazing self-control and self-confidence can tell outsiders about his own failure.
The definition of "what is a dandy" in the modern world remains the same as in the days of Alcibiades:
- self-confident, charismatic person, consciously going into conflict;
- judge of style, whose amendments are not discussed, butaccepted as true, even if they are rather caustic;
- a welcome visitor in any salon, club, feast - everywhere.
The environment of modern parties, implying androgynous appearance, bisexuality in erotic relationships - strongly resembles in its spirit ancient times, the times of the birth of dandyism.
Dendist Charter
What makes a sophisticated fashionista? What is the charter and what does dandy mean?
- First, material independence. Any dandy is contemptuous of professionals, cultivating in his character an amateur attitude to any occupation. Everything that a dandy does should bring pleasure to him personally - collecting, studying history or exotic languages, diverse hobbies. All this requires money, but no true dandy could afford to count and think about them.
- Second, the code of honor. The word given by such a fashionista was not questioned. In other cases, the patronage of high-ranking persons served as a guarantee. What is characteristic of dandyism is that the requirements of honor were applied only to people of equal class. Failure to fulfill the obligations assumed in relation to the shopkeeper was not considered something unacceptable, but was even welcomed and regarded as bravado.
- Thirdly, the ability to endure bodily inconvenience, which true dandies acquired by constantly hardening the body, living in barely heated rooms and spending hours training the physical endurance of the body with special exercises. Codeimplied that a dandy is a person who does not feel cold or heat, does not experience thirst and hunger, never gets tired or tired.
- Fourthly, pleasure as the highest goal of life. Therefore, often the dandies in life are players who tend to break the rules, having fun at the expense of their neighbor.
- Fifthly, the ability to dress elegantly, emphatically. The suit must be perfectly cut, and the tie must be tied with a carelessness that has been rehearsed for hours in the mirror.
Dandism causes financial ruin
If you trace the life history of the most famous dandies of the early 19th century, you can see a certain pattern. Many fashionistas who fall under the meaning of the word dandy ended up in poverty and disease.
- George Brian Brummel - died in a psychiatric hospital as a beggar.
- Oscar Wilde - died in exile, humiliating poverty, sick with meningitis, speechless.
- Charles-Pierre Baudelaire - died in a mental hospital, diagnosed with syphilis.
- George Gordon Byron - died of a fever in Greece.
It is possible that the indifference to we alth prescribed by the dandy code has caused the bankruptcy of many famous dandies.
Dandy style in clothes
Appearance clearer than all definitions gives an idea of what a dandy is. Fashionista's clothes should be modest only at first glance. The perfect fit of the suit, providing freedom of movement, mustdistinguished by grace and elegance. Bright flashy colors have been squeezed out of fashion. The tone of the suit is now restrained, calm - brown, sulfur or green. From jewelry: a tie, a pin, a watch and a boutonniere - which are allowed to be bright. Slight carelessness in tying a tie was achieved by long hours of practice in front of a mirror. It was considered bad manners to wear a new suit. He was given to a servant for a while to give a casual look. Gloves, shirts, scarves and socks were changed several times a day.
Conclusion
Today, the concept of dandyism has been greatly transformed and does not draw a clear image of the original meaning. But the game continues! Modern dandies form a new ephemeral phenomenon of slipping beauty.